Climbers, rejoice! The autumnal equinox is here, bringing with it every boulderer’s favorite season. Let the miserable rides aboard the summer strugglebus drift away—no more sweaty days greasing off slopers. It’s time to see if all those hangboard sessions paid off. The days are shorter, the rocks are drier, and the temperature indicator is steadily pointing toward SEND.

The past few years have marked a bouldering renaissance in the New. While bouldering in the Gorge was, until recently, somewhat obscure and practiced in a few well-trodden spots, like Hawks Nest Dam and the legendary Junkyard bouldering cave, the region is now entering its Golden Age. With the addition of the recently-completed New River Gorge Bouldering guidebook by local crushers Micah Klinger and Stella Mascari, featuring over 1,000 documented problems, the New is sure to become a destination for pebble wrestlers far and wide. Klinger and Mascari went into painstaking detail to climb as many problems as possible, develop gorgeous photos and topos, and dig up as much history as they could in a well-concerted effort to credit the first ascentionists.

The region’s boulders are composed of the same world-class Nuttall sandstone that creates some of the country’s finest single-pitch sport and traditional routes high up on the rims the New, Meadow, and Gauley river gorges. Just like your favorite roped routes, NRG boulder problems feature fluid lines flowing through powerful overhangs, heinous lockoffs, and heart-stopping top outs on slippery slopers.

According to local climber Paul Nelson, the biggest hindrance to NRG bouldering is the lack of concentrated boulders with decent, flat landing zones. He recommends those new to the region start with Hawks Nest and Meadow Top—two mega zones with a concentration of quality problems on beautiful boulders.

“It’s one of our most dense bouldering fields,” says Fayetteville climber Matt Carpenter of Meadow Top. “There’s a lot of bomber rock and it’s a proper boulder field; there’s a little something for everyone.”

Although he can often be found on a rope in the gorge, Carpenter says the region really shines in the winter, when conditions are harsh for long routes. “People come here for the super bomber rock, especially in the winter time,” he says. “It’s awesome to be able to hit up the boulders when the weather is a little less than convenient.”

But that doesn’t mean you should wait for the mercury to fall below 32. “The bouldering is world-class, it really is,” Carpenter says. “People are just starting to recognize how awesome the bouldering is, and that it can contend with the route climbing as well.”

While increased traffic has brought about negative impacts in other destinations, the rise in bouldering has been positive at the New. “With more people accessing the boulders, we’re starting to improve some of the access to the bouldering areas, and some of the parking lots,” Carpenter says. “We’re starting to see more people recognize the New as bouldering destination, and we’re sort of expanding our infrastructure to accommodate the bouldering.”

While those looking to experience all that the NRG region has to offer should pick up a copy of the guidebook ($35) in Waterstone, we’ve compiled basic beta on where to go if you’re looking for an intro session.

Hawk’s Nest

Situated directly at the base of the Hawks Nest Dam, the concentrated Hawks Nest boulders feature a solid variety of classics in a surreal setting. Downstream, the New River Dries meanders through the gorge. Turn around, however, and you’re face to face with the monstrosity that is the dam. Makeshift crash pad frames comprised of driftwood, steel, and rocks can often be found in damp landing zones, and are quite resourceful. Route access is dependent on water level—when the dam’s flood gates are open, many boulders become submerged. If the sirens go off while you’re out enjoying your session, beware—the dam is about to release water, and levels can rise quickly.

The classics:

• Puckerface V2
• Egg Direct V3
• Leaving Las Fayetteville V5
• Was That a Boob V6
• White Eyebrow V7

Cotton Bottom

Just downstream from Hawks Nest on river right lay the Cotton Bottom boulders. Easy access from Route 16 and a grueling 30-second approach—beware the ephemeral mud pits—make Cotton Bottom the place to go when Hawks Nest is flooded out. With a decent stash of problems in the V4 range, plus some tougher testpieces, Cotton Bottom can accommodate a diverse crew.

The classics:

• Walking the Dog V1
• Slitty Titty Traverse V4
• Mines of Moria V4
• Drums in the Deep V4
• Slopers Malone V6
• Bat Cave Traverse V8

Sunshine Boulders

Classic lines on the river bank under the span of the world’s second-longest arch bridge? Yes, please. Park at Fayette Station, grab your hobo gear, and hike down the train tracks for 10 minutes until you see the first of the boulders—this is the Sunshine Boulder. A few more minutes on the tracks gets you to the Black and White Boulder. According to Carpenter, the Sunshine Boulders area has a great selection of classic moderates in one of the best settings in the gorge.

The classics:

• Talon Foot V2
• Helium V3
• Sunshine Arête V5
• The White V7
• The Black V9

Interp Boulders

Prefer to get your fix up high on the rim of the gorge? These boulders are a just a several-minute walk from the American Alpine Club campground. You’ll pass the Tuggin’ Shack along the way—a shelf of rim rock stacked with a lineup of easy and moderate lines. Head to the Interp Boulder and at least admire Pat Goodman’s 30-foot offwidth roof classic Souvenir (V6).

The classics:

• T-Rex V2
• The Nose V2
• Tasty Brew V3
• Flipside V3
• Honky V5
• Ronski Feint V7

 Beauty Mountain-Short Creek

Best known for its stellar crack climbs, the aptly named Beauty Mountain is also home to a great bouldering circuit that runs from the cliffline down the Short Creek drainage. Next time you head out to plug some gear, have someone in your crew bring a pad and enjoy going ropeless for a few moves.

The classics:

• Gymnastic Fantastic V2
• Throwing Stars V5
• Vamanos V6
• Water Equation V6
• Ali Bubba V9 

Meadow Top

The premier bouldering zone of the Meadow River Gorge has a true wilderness feel compared to the more developed setting of the New River Gorge. It’s also the region’s top concentration of moderates, featuring a handful of classic lines in the V2 – V6 range.

 The classics:

• Crimpin’ Aint Easy V3
• Mechanical Sensei V5
• Loki V5
• The McGuffin V5
• Egyptian Root Canal V5
• Oil Sands V7

Dylan Jones is managing editor of Highland Outdoors and realized he needs to spend more time on the rock while writing this article.